Thursday, January 6, 2011

SHALWAR KAMEEZ MAGIC - Part I

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Today I'm going to write about my most favorite wear - Shalwar Kameez (as it is pronounced in Pakistan) or Salwar Kameez (as Indians say) which is a national dress in Pakistan and a traditional suit in the Northern India, Punjab and some places of South-central Asia. Shalwar Kameez is a highly comfortable complete dress worn by both men and women. It's perfect for all occasions: simple but inevitably beautiful models as a daily wear and luxurious, richly decorated designer masterpieces for parties and special events. Today's designers offer intricately decorated shalwar kameez in an incredibly limitless variety of artistic styles and designs, fantastic colors and patterns!

Shalwar Kameez consists of the three-piece outfit:  
kameez or kurta  is a long tunic or shirt varying in length from thigh line to knee line or even lower. Traditionally, the kameez/kurta has mostly up to knee length with full length sleeves, half sleeves or sleeveless.
shalwar - loose pyjama-like trousers. Shalwars, wide at the top and narrowing towards the ankles, are pleated or gathered into a waistband with a drawstring.
The shalwar also comes in a plenty of styles: churidar and patiala shalwar {love it!}, pathani shalwar and western inspired parallel, boot cut etc.
and, completing the ensemble, there comes dupatta or chadar - a wide, long, multi-purpose scarf or shawl. A stylish accessory that can be worn in different ways - over one or both shoulders, around the chest or neck or covering the head.

Let's have a look at three basic styles of shalwar kameez suit:

Churidar shalwars are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in South Asia and Central Asia. Narrow, naturally stretchy churidars have more length compared with traditional shalwar length, thus the excess material falls into folds and wrinkles come on the ankle. It looks like a set of bangles resting on the ankle (hence the term 'churidar' is compounded from two words: 'churi': bangle and 'dar': like).
When the wearer is sitting, the extra material is the "ease" that makes it possible to bend the legs and sit comfortably.

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 Absolutely love this churidar suit, the colors, gorgeous embroidery, a fancy headband and yes... these sweet red shoes!

The name for Anarkali shalwar kameez, being very much in fashion nowadays, came from the Mughal period. Anarkali (pomegranate blossom) was a court dancer in Emperor Akbar era when Akbar’s Son Saleem fell in love with Anarkali and this became a reason for a big revolt.
The dances (mujra or mujara) performed at palace of Mughal kings were extremely famous entertainment that times. Initially, the dresses in which mujra dances were performed were called as mujra dresses. Later they got famous by the name of Anarkali dresses or Anarkali shalwar kameez in the remembrance of the great dancer and a passionate lover Anarkali.

Below, you can see the Anarkali Churidar Suit worn by a legendary Indian film actress Madhubala in a famous, classical feature film Mughal–e-azam (1960) where she played the role of Anarkali. Enjoy a beautiful song too...


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The top of the Anarkali churidar suit is highly embellished with traditional hand embroidery of Zari, Dabka, Gotta-patti, stones and sequins. 

The Top is till slightly below the knee and has got a skirt like flair called as Ghera starting from the waist till below the knee. The top has a belt shape made of similar hand embroidery starting from the top of the waist just below the bust area. 

The fabric used for Anarkali suits varies as it could be Georgette, Chiffon, Crepe, Silk, Chanderi, Banarsi and Brocade. Although Brocade, Silk and Chanderi are the most preferred fabric for Anarkali churidar suit due to the shine in the cloth.



The Anarkali top is perfect with Churidars which are tightly gripped to the body like stockings and  very narrow around the ankle area.

While a normal Shalwar Kameez can be made 3 piece in 6 mtrs., Anarkali churidar suit can easily take 8mtrs. or above depending on the ghera or flair of the Top.


Anarkali is a magnificent blend of style and comfort, providing a super feminine, refined look.

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Patiala Shalwar has tiny fan pleats falling from the waist till the ankle.  This gives the shalwar a draping effect and imparts a very attractive look to the wearer. The fluid like lines of the Patiala suit makes it suitable for wear by women of all ages, sizes and shapes. The shalwar is worn with a short and well fitted kameez or kurta. 
 
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There is some special historical background for the style's name. Patiala is a city in the North Indian state of Punjab. In ancient times, the Maharaja of Patiala found it to be one of the most comfortable dresses. His dress was a pleated and baggy type shalwar with long loose kameez with full sleeves. 

The Patiala suits made during those times were even more voluminous than the ones available today and required a lot of fabric to be made. They were extremely heavy with innumerable folds around the waist. The patialas were worn with full sleeved kameez and since it was men who wore them, the dupatta was not worn.
It was therefore known as the dress of the rich and privileged. With time however, the design changed to suit common needs. The outfit began to be worn by women as well until men stopped wearing patialas and it became an outfit solely for women.

A traditional Punjabi Patiala suit usually has phulkari work in satin or silk. The delicate and intricate phulkari embroidery is usually on the dupatta rather than the kameez or the shalwar. Any fabric can be used to make a Patiala shalwar suit. While cotton, linen or polyester work well for daily use, silk, satin or other fabrics can be used to make fancy Patiala shalwar suits.

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As shalwar kameez has variety of designs semi patiala shalwar is one the beautiful designs which looks extremely graceful on any woman who wears it.
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And some gorgeous designer shalwar qameez..!
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I am a HUGE fan of Pakistani and Indian fashion, and always get excited and highly inspired when watching unique creations a designers' unlimited fantasy offers us!


I know this is quite difficult as all these look so alluring, but did you detect your favorite style from here and what model do you like the most? 


I hope you enjoyed the post as much as I enjoyed making it! Part II coming soon! ;)


Text and images prepared on the basis of wikipedia and other multiple google searches.

There are many on-line shops offering shalwar kameez like for example this one at utsavsarees 

3 comments:

Dimah said...

Wow, beautiful! Thank you so much for sharing!

Georgianna said...

Zara, these are just beyond words, they are so beautiful!!!!! I could be happy wearing nothing else all the time. So feminine, classy and elegant. And they look comfortable, too! Thank you for such beautiful images. Wow! xo – g

Fräulein Drache said...

Wow! So much beautiful designs! I like them all!!!